709 Hours to date
Wellll... I dislike changing pages in the middle of a piece of work, but the horizontal stab is going to go on far too long to finish up back on page 8.
4 Hours, August 6, 2003
I sanded the bonding surfaces of the shell to be jigged. Then fitted the shell and jig parts together. The height of the leading edge stabilizer above the desk was measured and then wedges inserted to maintain that height all the way out to the ends. The surface of the desk was cleaned and touched with fine sandpaper where the jig blocks were to be fastened and then they were hot glued in place with high strength glue.
The position blocks bottom and left top. Wedge is bottom left. |
Another view of the wedges and position blocks. |
The weight of the transformer holds the shell in place on the wedge while the hot glue cools. |
5 Hours, August 7, 2003
I finished jigging the top shell and finished block sanding the the trailing edge true. The I started fitting the shear web using 1" X 3/4" X 1/4" thick foam blocks hot glued in place. The rear edge of the shear web is 1" from the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer shell.
Hot gluing the foam blocks to hold the shear web |
And a bit more work positioning the foam blocks |
The shear web held in place with the ribs temporarily in position. The tips have been trimmed to fit. |
4 Hours August 8, 2003
I finished fitting the shear web using the foam blocks, then sanding the bonding surfaces of the other shell. The next step was to cut the leading edges from the ribs flush with the foam bevel in the shells.
Shear web and ribs in place. The shells temporarily together. |
Another view of the shells temporarily fitted together. |
I've started fitting the shear web into the bottom shell, but I really needed to get the larger flat surface ready so I can set the centerline from the leading edge through the shear web to allow for setting the shear web perpendicular to that cord line.
Shear web and ribs in place. Ribs trimmed to fit. The 4 foot sanding block is seen leaning against the rear of the bench. |
Sand paper used to clean up the bonding surfaces of the horizontal stabilizer shell. Pieces can be seen that stuck to the paper. Other pieces "balled up" on the surface. |
Since the south table had shifted making the alignment difficult, I decided to create a new working surface using half a sheet of plywood. I used Oak venire as it's a hard surface even if it does take a little more finish. I finished the surfaces with Min Wax (TM) Poly Urethane varnish. As I had two pieces I decided to play around with the finish a bit.
It takes at least two, or three coats of finish to produce a smooth surface that makes sealing the positions blocks in place relatively easy.
The Oak plywood with Poly Urethane finish over the natural wood |
The Oak plywood with Poly Urethane finish over Oak stain |
As I had the material, I decided to try using a bit of Oak stain just to see what I'd come up with. One 2 X 8 foot sheet is finished natural while the other is stained Oak. All they really need to be is a good, smooth, durable finish to which I can bond the locator blocks and wedges. As long as I have to put that much work in it there is little extra involved in experimenting with the stain and finishes. Besides, this gives me a chance to see what the stuff looks like. One thing I've discovered is Birch would have probably been a better choice as there is less grain and hence less filling and sanding required.
Both sides and the edges need to be sealed to keep the shape stable. This stuff was so *fresh* that the car smelled like "Elmer's Glue" (TM) by the time I got home.
5 Hours, 13 August 2003
I sanded the surface of both plywood sheets, wiped them down with mineral spirits, and then gave the one a coat of Oak stain. After an hour I gave each a coat of polyurethane finish. About 8 hours later I sanded each surface, cleaned with mineral spirits, and after drying gave them a second coat. Both panels have two coats of polyurethane on the one side.
5 Hours, 14 August 2003
I sanded the bare wood on the back side with 200 grit and then cleaned it with mineral spirits. After drying for an hour I gave it a good coat of Oak stain. I then sanded the surface of the first coat on the back side of the unstained sheet, vacuumed up the dust and cleaned the surface with mineral spirits. After about two hours for drying I applied the second coat on the unstained wood and the first coat on the freshly stained wood. Then I took a break, went to the airport and gave 33R about a half hour of exercise.
3 Hours, 15 August 2003
I finished the third coat on the second side of the natural colored plywood and the second coat on the second side of the Oak stained plywood. Currently "I think" two coats may be enough on the stained wood. With three coats the unstained wood has a glass like finish to which I should be able to glue without damaging the wood. I'm going to have to wait to see how that second coat on the stained wood looks after it dries. I just remembered I still need to seal the edges of the plywood too.
I wish I had thought ahead and had this done prior to Joyce's bicycle tour. I might have actually closed the horizontal stabilizer. However wishing gets us nowhere. If one of the surfaces is sufficiently smooth Saturday, I will start re-jigging the horizontal stab. That is if the 8 foot length is really long enough. I may still have to hot glue the end position blocks to the desks instead of the new panel.
The "chip brushes" work fine for the earlier coats as I can pick out the "whiskers", but the final coat goes on with a high quality brush. With a good one I don't have to go looking for whiskers in the finish.
3 Hours, 16 August 2003
I decided to use the natural finished 2' X 8' sheet of 3/4 inch plywood and placed it in position on the desktops. Three coats of Polyurethane with a good sanding in between coats using 200 grit sandpaper has produced an almost furniture like finish. One more coat and it'd be like glass, but the three coats have sealed the grain sufficiently. The front edge is level within my capacity to measure. The back side shows a very tiny deviation which is low on the south east corner. This can be shimmed up and then the edge hot glued in place with regular hot glue. A center line has been marked on the plywood and the horizontal stabilizer is back in place, but will not be mounted until after the back edge of the plywood is leveled.
I'm probably going to have to reword this, but at this point there are several things I would add to the instructions in the manual. Jigging the top shell (the stab is constructed upside down) is done in stages. The jigged shell will eventually need to have the cord line level as measured from the top of the leading edge to the center of the shear web. The shear web will need some spacers under it to approximate the thickness of the resin mix that will be used to bond it in place when the leveling is done.
Jigging the Horizontal stab:
This is the method I'd use, but others might have different preferences.
The first step in the manual is to *study* the chapter on Stabilizer Panel Preparation and Rib/Shearweb Layout: I would suggest studying all the way up to bonding the shearweb several times before starting. "Things" go faster when you know where you are going.
The start with, the "scribe lines" are used for a reference to the trailing edge and then sand the trailing edges straight and true parallel to those scribe lines.. This puts the trailing edge equal distance from the scribe lines on *both* panels. I used a long straight edge to extend the scribe marks the full width of each panel instead of using chalk line. (DO not scribe through the gel coat! Only make the mark ON the gel coat.) I Jigged the panels, one-at-a-time so that they are held rigidly which makes block sanding of the trailing edges much easier. It also makes marking the shearweb and rib positions easier.
After studying figures B-1, B-2, B-3, and B-4, I cut the long taper pieces shown in B-4, (Page B6 in my manual). I also prepared a smooth flat surface on which to work (shown above). In this case it is a 2' X 8' X 3/4" piece of plywood. with a good surface. As above I gave it three coats of Polyurethane finish with a good sanding between coats. Using Birch plywood this should give a glass like finish to which you can hot glue, or Bondo the shells, alignment pins, and wedges without having them become part of the wood. I aligned the two 48 1/2 inch taper pieces (step B-1, Figure B4) 3 inches forward of the back edge of the plywood and hot glued them in place. I then placed the shell on the work surface with the trailing edge a bit over 1 1/2 inches from the long wedges and temporarily hot glued the the alignment pins in place.
As the Horizontal Stabilizer is 8' wide at its narrowest point, a 9' flat surface door would make an excellent surface if one can be found to be flat and true. Otherwise the 8' sheet of plywood can be used and the end alignment pins can be hot glued to the supports under the plywood. The alignment pins need to be solidly anchored to what ever surface to prevent the stabilizer shell from moving around. I use two on each end. As the ends are narrower at the leading and trailing edges, pins a couple inches fore and aft of the widest point as well as 3, 4, or 5 along the leading edge will hold the panel solidly. Take care as the panels will most likely be of slightly different lengths.
I sanded each panel trailing edge using the block sander shown in the last photo in the second row of this page. It's easy to put a lot of pressure on the panel, hence the reason for sturdy alignment pins securely attached to the work surface. I removed only enough to get the edges true, then checked the distance from the scribe marks to the trailing edge. The shell that had the shortest distance to the scribe marks was then jigged up. The manual does tell you to remove at least 1/16th inch in the sanding operation.
Once the sanding operation was finished I marked the center line, shear web, and rib positions in both shells, then prep sanded the bonding areas. The shells were then remarked after the sanding.
After the above, the alignment pins were removed, and the shorter shell placed on the surface with the trailing edge mounted and carefully aligned 1 1/2 inches behind the taper wedges. The alignment pins were then reinstalled with a high strength hot glue. The shearweb was fitted, cut to length according to the manual and held in place with the foam blocks, hot glued to the shell.
At this point, I incorporated variations of several steps that have been developed by some of the builders and published on the Glasair users group. Alignment of the elevator hinge pins, centered between the shells, has long been a problem as the distance between the trailing edges changes when the shear web is bonded to the jigged shell and again when the stabilizer is closed. I used a two layer laminate to approximate the thickness of the resin mix that will bond the shearweb in place. From this laminate I cut small spaces which are placed regularly along the bottom of the shear web.
02 November 2003
I'm still working on the G-III, but as Summer comes to a close there is that frantic rush to get all the outside work done AND I'm reorganizing the shop to create a bit more room. A couple of friends came over night before last and we hung the big Hartzel prop on the west wall. I made a mount and bracket so all we had to do was lift it into place and put the nuts on four bolts. Once that was done I discovered the shop still has a floor and that just led to more work. Now, I have about 6 to 8 hours of tower work to finish yet. I've done it, but I can't say as I call puttin' on my long snuggies and working "up there" at 100 feet plus, in 20 MPH plus winds with a chill factor of close to zero F as being a whole lot of fun.
I have done a lot of work on the engine mount attach point reinforcements, but have a way to go. There are 96 individual lay-ups just for the reinforcements if you don't count the two layer lay-up use for a guide. Soooo... I do have quite a bit to do on "catching up" in this diary.
Bunch needs to be filled in here.
7 Hours, 07, 08. 09 January 2004, Welded up an adjustable support for the rear of the fuselage.
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29 January 2004 5 Hours
Horizontal stab... Finished aligning shear web, hot glued positioning blocks in place in the top and bottom shells as shown in the photo above.
30 January 2004 3 Hours
General alignment, did one outside lay-up on each side of the lower right (co-pilot's side) engine mount attach point reinforcement. In the process I managed to *hot* glue one of the blocks to the end of my thumb. There is a reason it's called hot and once attached it won't let go.
31 January 2004 3 Hours
And two more with peel ply this time. I now have one the left side of this one to finish. Then on to the others. Course there's all those inside ones to do yet. I also filled one air bubble.
01 February 2004 2 Hours
I finished up the outside lay-ups on the copilot's side bottom outside engine mount reinforcements. I also did some prep sanding of the other lower engine mount attach point reinforcements and added a radiused Q-cell mix to the pilots lower center mount reinforcement.
02 February 2004 2 Hours
And... Still more sanding and trimming of the area. I'm about ready to start doing the outside lay-ups on the two reinforcements on the nose gear wheel well and the lower pilots side.
07 February 2004 3 Hours
Still more prep sanding and shaping. Smoothing areas. I cut the end of a piece of wood (5/8ths inch X 6 inches) to a relatively steep angle. Then I wrapped sand paper around it in the long direction. This aids in getting into those corners and tight areas around the engine mount attach point reinforcements.
It seems like every time I smooth an area, or prep an area I see another that could use a bit of work.
12 February 2004 4 Hours
And still more sanding to remove drips, bumps, and runs as well as prep sanding. Then a good vacuuming followed by an Acetone wash. I cut the cloth pieces for rest of the outside laminations for the lower and lower, center engine mount attach point reinforcements. (24)
I also cleaned the top of the right wing sanded part of the trailing edge and wiped that side down. In addition I sanded the outside surfaces of the shear web for the horizontal stabilizer.
17 February 2004 2 Hours.
I did some more sanding and fitting. I now have all 6 outside pieces of glass cloth cut and fitted. I did the two lay-ups on the pilots lower outside mount, but the one to the inside ended up with a wrinkle I just couldn't get out, so I pulled that piece and then wiped that area with Acetone.
18 February 2004 3 Hours
I fitted a new piece of cloth in place of the one I removed yesterday and did all 6 lay-ups for the outside of the two center and the pilot's side engine mount reinforcements. Now I have three more layers to do on the outsides yet. Then there are 8 inside ones for a total of 32 two inside lay-ups on the bottom. Then I get to turn the plane upside down and do the two top engine mount reinforcements.
19 February 2004 4 Hours
I fitted and did 6 more lay-ups as above on the engine mount attach point reinforcements.
Ok, here we are at 3:25 AM on March 20th and I have more than a bit of catching up to do. I've been a bit remiss on this diary, so I'm going to have to do a little filling in. The last month was spent measuring, cleaning, sanding, and using a Dremel tool with a cutting disk to trim out excess lay-ups, and spots of resin that some how seem to manage to run out of lay-ups and pool after the stuff is too stiff to use. I still haven't figured out how it does that.
So, I may have to back up a bit and fill in, but today:
The lower outside corner engine mount attach point reinforcement cloth held in place by "bull dog" cloths pins. The two sides are held out of the way, then the front piece pulled down and the resin applied. Then each side is done. | The same reinforcement after curing, but before trimming. Only 6 more to go on this one. |
And after trimming |
19 March 5 Hours
I fitted the center lay-ups to the two lower, center engine mounts (on the nose gear wheel well) and this makes the second lay-up on the lower outside mount on the pilot's side. All four lower engine mount reinforcements have the 4 layer lay-ups on the outside for a total of 32 and with the exception of two inner lay-ups on the pilots lower outside all have one done on the inside. Just 7 more on each of the three and 6 on the 4th. Of course that doesn't count the two upper engine mount attach point reinforcements which I'll tackle after I finish up the 4 lower ones.
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The copilot's lower center reinforcement on the side of the nose gear wheel well Notice the sides held back by the cloths pins |
The same mount after cure, but before trimming. |
After Trimming-- Just 7 more lay-ups to go |
26 March, 2 Hours
I drilled holes in each end of the voids I could find and then filled the voids with resin.
27 March, 2 Hours
One more center lay-up on each of the engine mount reinforcements, and I have the cloth in place for all but the bottom outside on the pilot's side.
28 March, 2 Hours
Finished the three inside lay-ups for the attach point reinforcements. All 4 bottom reinforcements now have the outsides done and three out of 8 layers on the inside.
29 March, 3 Hours
I cut 6 pieces of glass cloth on the 45 bias for the inside lay-ups for the lower engine mount attach point reinforcements and fitted 4 in place. I also cut four 2 layer laminates (wedges) for the upper mount reinforcements.
31 March, 2 Hours
I finished the 4 lay-ups started on the 29th. (4 each are done) I also cleaned the upper right side (co-pilot's side) wing panel. The flash failed on my new camera so it's headed back to the manufacturer. It looks like I may have to dig out the old Olympus E-20 for a few days. At least I hope it's no more than a few days.
2 April, 3 Hours
I filled some hollows and irregularities with mill fiber, let cure a couple of hours and did 4 more inside lay-ups for a total of 5.
4 April 2 Hours
I trimmed the edges of the reinforcements with some sanding and a high speed grinder. Then cut 8 more pieces of cloth for the inside reinforcements.
8 April 2 Hours
Fitted the cloth to the inside of the 4 lower engine mount attach point reinforcements.
9 April 3 Hours
I did the four lay-ups. Unfortunately the lower center one on the pilot's side slide and wrinkled. I removed it and thoroughly cleaned the surface with Acetone while the resin was still liquid (but sticky). Also got sidetracked on refinishing the corner table for the living room.
10 April 2 Hours (so far)
I fitted a new piece of cloth to replace the one I pulled out yesterday, then did the lay-up for a total of 6. Only two more to go. Then I get to do the two upper engine mount attach point reinforcements.
11 April 2 Hours
I trimmed the edges of the engine mount attach point reinforcements and then cut five more cloth inserts. I fitted four inserts to the bottom engine mount attach point reinforcements. (Sanded the top and put on more more coat of finish on the end table too)
I also sanded the four 2 layer laminates that go in as the foundation for the upper engine mount attach point reinforcements to make all 4 the same size and shape.
Looks like it's about time to create a page 10. This is going to be pretty large once the photos go in for the above days.
806 Hours to date
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